Palace Friends

Here are some photos of the Palace animals, I can't seem to get a Monitor Lizard to stand still long enough to get a shot of one.  They are huge, and carnivorous, so I can't get too close.  Simone and I stop and pet the cows and talk to the water buffalo every day, much to the annoyance of our colleagues, who are impatient to get home.  

It's hard to tell, but those are water buffalo.

Mama cow!

My apartment

Everyone has been asking me about the accommodations, so:

View from my balcony

Wai Khru

We attended the annual Wai Khru ceremony on Thursday.  Wai Khru is a day on which students present their teachers with gifts and then Wai them to show respect.  The music was really interesting, I wish I could have taken a picture of the instruments.  The monks and elder teachers sat up on the stage at a special table, and we sat in front of the hall.  Each child in the whole school came up and presented a gift and Waied the teachers.  It was a beautiful ceremony and the students, who normally act insane, took it very seriously.  

Mangosteen, my favorite fruit.

Go Veggie!

Apparently, the cute little cows that I pet everyday on my to the front gate are cloned cows.  No joke!  Huh.  Sorry, its not a great picture.  We were in a hurry to leave because it was Friday.

A day in the life of an English Teacher at C------------ School

Every morning at 7am, twelve American English teachers pile into a van that takes us to school.  We usually arrive at 7:30 and eat breakfast in the office.  There is a deli on campus which sells the kind of food you would find at a 7eleven, and a bakery with all sorts of baked goods.  I usually have raisin toast or cereal with soy milk.

At 8am, we run a program called Reading Rainbow, which is designed to encourage the kids to read in English.  This is our favorite part of the day because we get to work one on one with the kids.  They choose a book and read it to us and then we ask them questions about the book.  If they answer correctly, they get a stamp on their Reading Rainbow card, which can be redeemed for prizes.  I have suggested we get a lifesize cutout of LaVar Burton but no one seems to find this amusing.

Classes begin at 9:20 am.

The English  curriculum at C--------- School is mainly worksheets.  While we were told that we would be able to develop our own lesson plans, the worksheets are mandatory.

There are three Prathom 5 (fifth grade) classrooms, each with about forty students.  Instead of the students moving around, the teachers come to them, unless they have a science lab or P.E. class or something.  

The P5 classrooms are on the fourth(top) floor.  All of the walkways are outdoors, and there are no elevators.

The classes are split into two groups on Wednesday and Thursday, so I have to take my group elsewhere, to the top floor of another building.  Which means that three times per day I have to walk up to the top floor, gather my students. Usually, when I go to get the students, they are very late because their homeroom teachers do not follow the schedule(no one really does).  I then attempt to get them to walk with some semblance of propriety (or at least without screaming and shoving) across campus to another building, and up the stairs to the top floor.   The students remove their shoes outside the classroom, a raucous and chaotic affair, and then I spend about ten minutes getting the students settled in and less noisy(quiet just isn't an option).  

Since there are only fifty minutes in a class period, this leaves me with about 20 minutes left to "teach" which really just entails me frantically passing out worksheets and prodding the students to stop screaming and fake sword fighting and finish their work.  

When the last student is finally finished, I run back over to the first room and start this process all over again.

When I finally make it to lunch I flop down into my seat with the six other disheveled and haggard looking english teachers, and we just all look at each other with expressions of horror and bewilderment.  

After lunch, we start to grade the massive, never ending stacks of worksheets, which are never recorded into a grade book, and which the students therefore do not put any effort into.  

By the time I look up from grading its four o'clock and time to go.  

We walk single file through the endless line of cars out to the entrance of the palace.  There are these beautiful red Brahman cows that live on the grounds, and we pass them on our way out.  I always say hi and they come over to get pet.  There are two calves and a mama cow.  They are soooo cuute!  At the gate, we walk past the guards with giant guns and one friendly guard hails us a cab, or we walk home, which takes about a half hour.

The rest of the school curriculum seems really amazing.  The kids learn the basics, Thai, math, reading, science, history, and they also learn cooking, art, flower arranging, meditation, martial arts, ping pong, swimming, computers, television production, dance, sign language, Chinese, and of course English.  

For some reason though, they really like these English worksheets and refuse to stray.  It is quite frustrating, and I feel so guilty that my students never do anything but worksheets.  Ugh.

Getting around in Bangkok

Old School Tuk Tuk

There are several ways to get around in Bangkok.

1.  Walking

Walking is one of my favorite ways to get around.  While it is hot here, it isn't bad as long as you stay in motion.  I think I am getting used to the heat; at first, my shirt would be soaked within two minutes of going outside, but now it takes five.  

There are a couple drawbacks to walking.  First, there is always traffic in Bangkok.  Rush hour lasts from about 7am till about 3am, and this includes foot traffic.  The sidewalks are often very narrow because of all the street vendors, and no one in Bangkok is ever in a hurry.  When making an appointment, you are often asked, "is that Thai time?", meaning, "can I get there within an hour and still be considered punctual?"  This is neither an exaggeration, nor an insult, just something that takes getting used to.  Hence, it often takes forever to walk anywhere.

Also, directions are very difficult to follow here.  Most of the signs are in Thai, and since Thai is a tonal language, it is very hard to say where you are trying to go in Thai and have someone understand you and help you.  Also, the American custom of giving someone directions even though you have no idea how to get to where they are trying to go is, apparently, a Thai custom as well.  Humanity is united across cultures by... lying.

Further, if you write down directions, they are difficult to follow anyway because, if you are lucky enough to find and read the street sign, it is hard to tell where it is pointing, as there are often six roads all leading from different angles into one intersection.

Also, because english doesn't translate easily, when things are written in english, you may see it spelled six different ways in six different locations, which leaves you wondering, "is it the same street or a different one with a similar name?"

Also, any time you walk in Bangkok, you are taking your life into your own hands.  Drivers are pretty reckless, and are not mindful of pedestrians.  Motorcycles dart in and out of lanes, sometimes going against traffic, and even drive on the sidewalk.  You can't ever stop paying attention.

2.  Sky Train

The sky train, or BTS, is very convenient because the station is pretty close to our apartments, and goes to most major stops you would want to get to.  It is the best way to travel if you are traveling alone, for both safety and monetary reasons.  The ticket price is based on how far you are going, just like BART, usually between 20 and 30 baht.  (less than $1US).  The train comes like clockwork every five minutes, which is very convenient.  

The only drawback is that you go during rush hour(remember that is between 7am and 3am), be prepared to let go of any need for personal space you may have.  You will be crammed into a train(thankfully air conditioned), and just when you don't think there is any more room, the doors open and more people pile in.  This goes for any crowded situation.  Thais do not seem to have any personal space rules, and when you are walking down the street, you will often find someone walking so close behind you that you can feel their breath on the back of your neck, even if there is plenty of space to walk elsewhere.  Elevators are also quite the feat of smooshing.  

The scary part is when you have to exit the train(or elevator).  The protocol here seems to be this: push.  a lot.  You better hurry too, before the doors close.  No one who gets pushed even bats an eye.  If you say sorry, they look at you like you're nuts.  So just keep going, nobody cares.

The Sky Train

3.  Tuk Tuks

Tuk Tuks, pronounced took tooks, are three wheeled motorized taxis.  They are open air, so no air conditioning, and unmetered, so you have to arrange a price before you leave.  If you wait till you get to your destination you will probably find yourself, as a westerner, paying an astronomical price.  Tuk Tuks are faster than cabs because they are smaller and can dart in and out of traffic.  If you are in a hurry , this is the way to go.  I usually avoid them because traffic in Bangkok is terrifying, and the tuk tuk drivers are definitely offensive drivers, trying to make the most of their time.  But you have to ride in a Tuk Tuk at least once if you come to Bangkok.  Its fun in a scary sort of way.

The girls from Baylor University piled into a tuk tuk

4.  Motorcycle taxis

Avoid at all costs.  Very fast, no helmet, very dangerous.  And you have to straddle a stranger or sit sideways, both not an option in my opinion.  A few years ago, a teacher from Chitralada got her skirt caught in the wheel... not pretty.

5.  Taxis

This is my favorite way to get around if I'm with someone.  It is more cost effective than the sky train if the fare is split, and air conditioned.  

If you get into a taxi, you have to make sure they put on the meter, otherwise you'll find yourself bargaining at the end of your ride, and probably pay too much.  With the meter it costs less than 100 baht ($3US) to get just about anywhere in town.  Usually closer to 60 baht.  

The traffic is always a bear, and you have to watch and make sure the driver is going the right direction(if you can tell), because some like to drive in circles for a while to get a better fare.  Most taxi drivers  I have encountered, however, are friendly, helpful, and honest.

The nice thing about taxis is that they are everywhere, so if you get lost, you can just jump in a taxi.  The first thing I learned to say in Thai is Ratchaprarop Soi 14( La Cha Prah Rope Soi Sip See), so I can always get home!

Riding in a cab, however, can be dangerous.  Simone, Star, and I went to a game night the other night.  Star decided to take the Sky Train home, and Simone and I hopped into a cab.  The driver was a woman, a rarity in Bangkok, and very friendly.  We drove in traffic a little ways, and suddenly, the door on Simone's side opened.  The driver looked back and screamed and Simone jumped almost into my lap.  We were sure all of our worst nightmares were coming true.  It was just Star, who had seen our cab walking and decided to scare us.  She laughed for ten minutes.  But as we related the story to some other people, we started hearing some scary stories about cab incidents people had experienced, and we all decided never to ride in a cab alone, unless absolutely necessary.  A good tip is to always sit right behind the driver, because its harder for him to grab you, and never ever sit in the front seat!

Durian

is not good, Nana, you were right.  Its like onion pudding... that smells bad.

We made Ryan try it too, he'll eat anything.  Its unanimous, we don't like it.

Do you?

Sorry Mama...

Koh Samet

This weekend we went to the tiny island of Koh Samet.  Koh Samet is a National Park located South of Bangkok.  There were 21 people in our group, four from Sacramento, and seventeen from Baylor.  

We met up at Victory Monument and caught a couple vans do the dock in Bahn Poh, about a three hour drive.  We got to the dock around eight, planning on taking a speedboat, because the last ferry is at six.  

At first, the driver told us that the waves were too big, but he suddenly decided it was safe when he realized there were 21 of us.  For 100 baht each (about 3 dollars) he let us get into the boat, no lifevests.  

I kept trying to figure out whether I would drown or be eaten first.  The waves were huge and the ride was exhilarating and horrifying at the same time.  

There was no dock on the beach, we just stepped into the warm, clear water and waded to shore.  The beach was paradise, lit by moonlight and candlelight, and strewn with pillows and mats for lounging and low tables for food and drink.  I saw stars for the first time in almost a month.  

We found a bungalow for 1600 Baht for the five of us, so it ended up being about $10US per person.  Not bad.  But next time we know better, there were nicer places for less money.

Ryan found a giant land snail and licked it.  I don't know why.

We spent the night laughing and playing in the surf in our underwear, dancing, watching firedancers, eating and drinking.  I laid on the sand and watched the moon and stars, listening to the waves.  It was magical.

I spent Saturday reading in a chaise lounge on the beach.  I'm reading "A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius", by Dave? Eggars, and I must say that thusfar the title is accurate.  

Ryan and A rented motorcycles ($10US for 24 hours).  Apparently, you can drive around the entire island in an hour.  I was too scared to drive but I did go on a ride with Ryan and screamed most of the(whole) time.  

We ate dinner together and then found a place to dance.  It would have been more fun if we hadn't all gotten horribly sunburned.  Even sitting under an umbrella with sunscreen wasn't enough.  Life so near the equator is brutal.

I got up early the next morning so that I could see the beach without any people on it.  Koh Samet isn't crowded at all, but there were usually about forty people on the beach during the day.  It was breathtakingly beautiful and so peaceful.  I didn't see the sunrise, I'm going to try next time...

We got back at about 6 on Sunday and after rubbing aloe gel everywhere, I called and ordered food from this amazing vegetarian Italian place.  We can have food delivered from about 50 different restaurants, but on my salary I have to be careful how often I do that...  it was so worth it after such a long weekend.

Everyone says Bangkok is not Thailand, and I can see why.  Even the soi dogs seemed friendlier and happier in Koh Samet, and I finally understand why Thailand is called the Land of Smiles.  

Getting up this morning for work = LAME

Good day at school though.

The fruit in Thailand

The fruit here is is amazing.  The mangos are always perfectly ripe.  Even the bananas are more flavorful and there are tons of different kinds of bananas.  Mangosteens are purple fruit with this indescribably delicious white fruit inside.  Lychee and rambutan are some of my favorites.  Here is what rambutan looks like:  

And when you open it:

Wild huh?

I am not big on dragon fruit, and I have yet to try the durian.  The smell is intimidating, though I hear its delicious.  

Don't get me started on the pineapple, seriously.